Communication in the 1700’s

For centuries, the Wurzburg prince-bishops wielded great power and wealth, and the most opulent proof of this is the Bishop’s Residence, a UNESCO site in the City of Wurzburg, Germany. Our visit here got me thinking about how people communicated before the general population was educated and able to read and write. Much communication occurred through the churches, and the church leaders educated their flock from the pulpit, explaining the world through their own eyes and beliefs, but clearly there was much more to be learned.

Our guide today was Fritz, and he was the perfect guide for this tour. Fritz was clearly fascinated by his subject matter and was able to take us very in depth to the politics and culture of the time. The Wurzburg Residence is a palace, commissioned by the Prince-Bishop of Wurzburg, Johann Phillip Franz von Schoenborn and his brother. There is an actual castle in Wurzburg as well, but the Bishop did not think the palace big or grand enough. He wanted to be able to entertain and impress all the heads of state of the times, and the Residence certainly is impressive. The cost of this place must have been staggering, and to build it today would be beyond pricey. The Schoenborns actually started the undertaking by winning a sum of 600,000 florins (a fortune at the time) in a court case and used these funds to proclaim to all in Europe of the Prince-Bishop’s importance.

The Residence is huge, but everything of note in Germany seems to be huge, so at first, it was just another big building and courtyard. It has 400 rooms, which initially seems like less than you would think just because of the sheer size of the building. But you could land a plane in several of the rooms. Upon entry, you begin to ascend the grand staircase, and it becomes clear why this building is important. Napoleon himself called it ‘the largest parsonage in Europe’, but even the size of it is not its claim to fame. It’s the art.

The Grand Staircase resides under what is one of the most impressive frescoes I’ve ever seen. Painted by Giovanni Battista Tiepolo, with stucco work crafted by Antonio Giuseppe Bossi, and the architectural genius of Balthazar Neumann, the visual impact of the staircase and the ceiling artwork is hard to match. Drawing the eye upward, one initially misses all the stucco, marble and carvings of the staircase, and it's almost too much to take in at once. The fresco must have been unheard of at the time, as stucco work blends in and emerges from the painting with such intricacy that initially you don’t realize the 3 D effect. It is the largest fresco in the world and is painted to reflect the 4 known continents at the time. And this is where Fritz really began to show his knowledge as he was clearly expert in all things Residence.

When you reach the top of the massive staircase and look up, you begin with the continent America. Not much was known about America during the 1700’s and it is characterized as natives with feathers, who practice cannibalism on their prisoners and ride crocodiles. The central female figure is nude reflecting the uncivilized nature of the continent. A quarter turn to the left brings you to Asia. People in Asia wear some clothing, live with tigers and elephants but are still pretty uncivilized, although they have many desirable spices and bolts of cloth in beautiful colors. Another counterclockwise quarter turn and you see Africa. Here there are camels, turbaned Magi and more colorful goods. Clearly there was significant trade with Africa and the figures are fleshed out in great detail. Your final turn takes you to Europe, the known center of the universe, where the fully civilized people lived. Here you see kings, religious leaders and a beautifully dressed woman riding a bull. Tiepolo himself is depicted here, as is Neumann, in 3D stucco, leaning out of the fresco onto a canon. The central middle of the fresco depicts angels, heaven, beautifully rendered religious leaders, and the holy trinity, suggesting the ascent into heaven. Many of the figures are painted with the faces of the known important figures of the time.

This fresco is a prime example of how communication occurred for the common people, who would have recognized most of the faces of the figures in Europe. It also expresses the prejudices of the times for the other continents. I’m not sure how many commoners were allowed access to this amazing place, but the art was instructive as to the issues at the time.

By this time, I was dizzy from looking up so much, and thought I had seen most of the wonders of the Residence but wait! There was more! The next several rooms depicted ever more gilded and instructive art. First was the White Hall, which is dominated by stucco decorations on a light grey background. The absence of color after the fresco allows the eye to rest and focus on the huge crystal chandeliers lighting the room.

Next is the Imperial Hall, returning you to color. The walls and the stucco in this room are red, white and yellow and depict the history of the times, including many battles, weddings and religious appointments. Again, the faces of the figures are known military and religious leaders and would have been recognizable to those viewing. Greek and Roman gods cavort in chariots and are joined by the Bishop of Wurzburg, sealing his rightful place among the gods.

The Court Chapel is next and is dominated by curving walls, gigantic colorful marble pillars and arches and more stucco statues. Finally, there is the mirror cabinet, which is the most precious interior in the building. It had been destroyed in the bombing raids in 1945 but has been completely restored using fragments and artifacts recovered from the destruction. This room is truly dizzying. The walls consist entirely of gold and glass reflective panels and seem almost infinite, reflecting off each other. Fritz continued to stress that everything in each room told the story of the history of the time, stressing the cultural and political beliefs of the Bishop and the Church.

Frankly, by the time we were done viewing the Residence, my eyes and brain were overwhelmed, and I didn’t think I could handle another word from Fritz. So, we struck out for town. We were within walking distance of the Vali and the weather was reasonable—threatening rain later but sunny at the moment. And we were rewarded to find that Wurzburg was engaged in a citywide celebration. It was unclear what exactly was being celebrated, but the town square (always look for the town square in Germany—something is sure to be happening) was filled with cheering people, dancing and singing. Sweet Caroline. In English. With a conga line. And costumes! We also found a department store and bought Bob some long underwear. The weather keeps getting colder.

We headed back to the Vali to another sumptuous meal and a quiet night. The entertainment on the Vali mostly consists of Csabo, who plays the piano and sings, and an occasional performance by Gavin, our Program Director, who has a beautiful voice and is partial to show tunes. There were a few trivia nights, but we were usually tired by then. One of the main differences between a river and an ocean cruise is the variety of entertainment, but for us the draw was the destinations, so we weren’t bothered.