Nurnberg and the Nazi Trials

Our next day was a bus ride to the town of Nurnberg, or Nuremberg in English. Nurnberg has a significant role in Nazi Germany. In 1936, Hitler ordered the Reichstag to convene there to pass the Nurnberg laws, revoking German citizenship for all Jews and other non-Aryans. It was a major military production site for aircraft, tanks and submarines. A concentration camp was in Nurnberg, populated mostly by non-Jewish enemies of Hitler who were used for slave labor. Jews in Nurnberg were rounded up and transported to various concentration camps, where they were killed. By 1945, and the end of the war, there were no Jews left in Nurnberg. The city was systematically bombed by the RAF and the US Army AF and about 90% of the city was destroyed within one hour. Over 6,000 Nurnberg residents were estimated to have been killed in these air strikes. Nurnberg was selected by the Allies to hold the Nurnberg Trials for several reasons, although the Russians would have preferred the trials to be held in Berlin. Since the laws stripping Jews of citizenship occurred there, the Allies felt having the trials there had symbolic value. The Palace of Justice was largely unscathed, and attached to a large prison, making the logistics of the trials workable. The Allies were against the trials taking place in Berlin as they felt Berlin would not follow the democratic position of innocent until proven guilty. Many prominent Nazi politicians and military leaders were deemed guilty and executed in Nurnberg.

Ann was our tour guide for this one and she originally came from Michigan. She was a history major, met her husband on a trip to Germany and has been here ever since. We did a coach tour with her through several sections where she went over German history. She noted, as have many other guides, that German students are required to learn the history of the Nazi regime. Nurnberg is a multicultural city and 50% of inhabitants have at least one foreign parent. She showed us the opera house where Wagner operas are often showcased. I’ve never really been a fan of Wagner, and Ann mentioned that Mark Twain famously said, ‘Wagner’s music is better than it sounds.’

Nurnberg is the second largest city in Bavaria and has a large public square where numerous booths for the Christkindlesmarkt (Christmas Market) were being set up. It is a traditional center for Lebkuchen (gingerbread) and handmade toys. The entire square smelled like ginger and cinnamon. After our tour, we had two hours to spend in the square, which is the shopping district. It was late in the day, and as the sun went down, the city lit up. There was a beautiful church in the square, the gothic Frauenkirche (Our Lady’s Church). We walked for awhile so we could feel like we deserved our gingerbread, and chose Die Lebkuchnerie for our purchase. As had been promised, it was excellent gingerbread, and put me in mind of my grandmother Dommermuth’s cooking.

We’ve been incredibly lucky with the weather. Each day promises rain but except for one day, it hasn’t materialized. The temperatures are in the 40’s and 50’s but the sun usually makes an appearance and it isn’t too bad. The architecture is very old world in Nurnberg, and the streets are mostly cobblestone. There is a large farmer’s market with delicious looking fruits and vegetables and we wished we could take some back to the Vali. Which would have been silly, since there are tons of thing to eat there. Baking seems to be a real trade here. We found a cake shop with some very complex designs, and several small shops with unique items for sale.

In most German cities the WC, or toilets, are easily available, although they cost money to use. Usually under a pound. Some take credit cards and some have attendants on staff to give change. But they are very clean, not at all like the WalMart bathrooms where people seem to try to outdo themselves and each other with the intricacy of their messes.

We boarded our coach back to the Vali shortly after dark, and had another nice, but very large dinner. I am getting better at refusing all the courses, and I think the wait staff has finally agreed to stop bringing me extra dishes. The food is really quite good, but there is a lot of it.

We enjoyed Nurnberg, and continue to appreciate the history of Germany and how the citizens have worked hard to make the best of their terrible past.